As I lay huddled on a lumpy bed in a guest house in Dharamsala, India, still recovering from giardia, I listened to the infant in the room next door scream for hours.

Was he suffering from a similar parasite, dysentery or food poisoning, or was he just colicky? I never found out, but my husband and I promptly checked out, vowing to never bring a newborn to a country where flies are more numerous than diners inside restaurants.

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